![]() ![]() Several signs can indicate a transmission problem in a Volkswagen vehicle. How do I know if my VW transmission is bad? Noise such as whining, humming, or clunking.SymptomsĬommon symptoms of Volkswagen transmission problems. You will learn about transmission problems such as faulty transmission range sensors, reset Volkswagen transmission adaptive settings, check transmission fluid levels, and retrieve transmission diagnostic trouble codes from the Transmission Control Module (TCM). This guide goes over common problems that affect Volkswagen (VW) transmissions, including the DSG gearbox and 01M transmission, and how to troubleshoot them. Don’t panic if your Volkswagen transmission is no longer shifting, shifts hard, or is stuck in gear. Whether you are a Volkswagen owner experiencing transmission problems or simply interested in learning more about the issues that can affect these vehicles, this article is designed to help you understand the most common transmission problems that Volkswagen owners face. In this article, we will discuss some of the most common Volkswagen transmission problems and offer advice on how to diagnose and fix them. ![]() A faulty transmission can cause a range of issues, from poor acceleration to complete transmission failure. One of the most common issues that Volkswagen owners face is transmission problems. However, like any vehicle, Volkswagen cars are not immune to problems. It's been fine since.Volkswagen is a popular car brand with a reputation for quality and reliability. I was a little worried, but I think the ECU has an adaptive learning capability and it needed to adjust from the contaminated MAF calibration. After I cleaned (and broke and fixed) the MAF, the car stalled the first time at 90 seconds. This roughly corresponds to hitting the first red light after starting out, which was one of my symptoms, and seems consistent with the general problem. On my car this appears to be at about 90 seconds after start (the car switches from open-loop control to closed loop?). Something to try: Start the car, let it idle and time the point at which the idle goes unstable or bounces a little. In any case, the car still runs better with a clean cracked MAF than a dirty intact one! It still works, but it's possible the calibration is a little off now. The electrical part seemed intact so I epoxied over the crack to reinforce the finger. I was trying to remove a piece of dirt that was caught between two of the fingers when I broke one of the substrates. The sensor is comprised of three electrical elements bonded to ceramic substrates. WARNING: DO NOT FOR ANY REASON TOUCH ANY OF THE SENSOR ELEMENTS - THEY ARE EXTREMELY FRAGILE! I SPEAK FROM EXPERIENCE. Spray electrical contact cleaner on the sensor element to clear it. Solution: If the MAF (Mass Air Flow) Sensor becomes contaminated with an oil film as a result of blow back from the crankcase ventilation system then the car may idle incorrectly or otherwise not run smoothly. Revving the engine would settle the idle, attempting drive-off would sometimes result in the car heaving for a second or two. Symptoms: Occasionally, a loping idle would occur, often at the first stop light after leaving home or work. This might help (info for mk3 gti-should still be relevant to mk4): Good luck!īest Auto Insurance | Auto Protection Today | FREE Trade-In Quote Again I have never actually had this problem, just trying to throw another suggestion into the mix, and maybe it will work. There is a spray that you can get from any dealership, it's VW part # ZVW-805-001, and they can probably give you directions on how to use it as well. ![]() ![]() I have never owned a CAI or any aftermarket drop-in for that matter, so I can't really say from experience, but I would try cleaning the MAF sreen. There have also been situations where the MAF is rendered inoperable, and must be replaced. I have seen suggestions made to replace the stock air box, clean the MAF screen, and clear the code to see if it is just dirty. So thats another thought, again nothing proven (not that I know of anyway). A cobweb or fleck of dust landing on the wires is enough for them to set a light." Most of the time, the MAF's are either not going to read the increased air (you can test this by putting on the stock filter or system and resetting the CEL), they are faulty, or they are contaminated. And in particular, Bosch has admitted that some batches are more sensitive than others. "The issue is that tightly engineered engines have lower threshholds for increased volumes of air. Here is a comment made by a K&N employee form another forum on the matter: As mentioned before, a lot of people think it's the oil impregnated filters ruining the MAF's, although it's really hard to prove. ![]()
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